Getting started: from one image to a bead shopping list
The usual first-time wall is "the result doesn't look like my image". This guide breaks the flow down and explains what each step is actually solving.
Decide first: do you want "accurate" or "finishable"?
This is the first fork in the road. A photo-derived pattern that chases pixel accuracy usually hands you a huge project of several hundred cells spanning a dozen color families — one you will neither finish nor be able to buy beads for. Fuse beading is handwork; a pattern is valuable when it can be finished in reasonable time and its colors are actually purchasable.
The right mindset is to accept some simplification in exchange for finishability. If a color difference is invisible at a few cells, it is not worth restoring.
Step 1 — Pick an image suited to quantization
Not every image works. The test is simple: cover the colors and look only at the outline. Can you still tell what it is?
| Works well | Works poorly |
|---|---|
| Line art, icons, cartoon characters, pixel art | Busy photo backgrounds, broad gradients, fine textures |
| Stills with a clear subject, front-on pet photos | Group photos, distant landscapes |
| High-contrast shapes with crisp edges | Low-contrast images with soft edges |
Step 2 — Choose a size, and do not start at maximum
Size determines how many beads you buy and how long you work. Thinking in long-edge cells is more direct than centimetres:
- Up to 30 cells — keychains, fridge magnets, small charms. One or two hours. Ideal for a first attempt.
- 50–60 cells — figurines, coasters, small wall pieces. Needs one large board or two joined.
- 80+ cells — large decorative panels. Hundreds to thousands of beads; make sure you have the time.
A rough conversion: cells × 5 mm ≈ finished edge length. A 60-cell pattern comes out around 30 cm wide.
Step 3 — Convert, then repair cell by cell
After import, the app quantizes automatically, assigning each cell its nearest color code. Whether the result is usable comes down to two checks:
- Has the overall outline survived? If a character's contour is broken, you lack contrast or cells — going back and changing the size beats patching cells by hand.
- Are there obvious stray cells? A few isolated off-color squares in the background are usually quantization noise. Paint them out.
- Fix the focal areas individually. Faces, eyes and logos drive the impression most; they are worth adjusting cell by cell.
Step 4 — Export two things with completely different jobs
| Export | What it is for |
|---|---|
| Construction sheet PNG | Follow it while beading. Includes color codes and board guides; printable and easy to keep beside you. |
| Material list CSV | Order beads from it. Lists how many of each code you need, ready to copy into a purchase. |
Also save an editable pattern (JSON). It is the record of every edit you made; changing size or recoloring later starts far faster from it than from scratch.
Common first-timer mistakes
- Codes do not match the physical beads. Screen color and real beads always differ, and batches vary. Treat codes on the pattern as a starting reference and confirm against a physical color card before ordering.
- Burning half your beads on background. Backgrounds often consume 50% of the count. Crop them out, or make them transparent.
- Ignoring pegboard boundaries. Patterns larger than one board need assembling; seams must line up, so watch the board guides on export.