Pattern size and pegboards: cells, centimetres and assembling tiles
Getting the size wrong causes more rework than anything else. The relationship between cells, centimetres and pegboard specs is worth learning properly.
Three units, one conversion
Fuse beading uses three measures at once, and mixing them causes errors:
| Unit | Means | Used for |
|---|---|---|
| Cells | Number of squares along the long edge | Setting size in the tool |
| Beads | Total bead count, equal to total cells | Estimating cost and time |
| Centimetres | Finished edge length | Checking space and choosing boards |
The conversion is simple: finished edge (cm) ≈ cells × 0.5 at a 5 mm bead pitch. In reverse, cells ≈ target cm × 2.
Note: 0.5 cm is the pitch of common 5 mm beads. Smaller or larger beads change the factor, brands differ slightly, and ironing shrinks the piece a little further.
Common pegboard sizes
The pegboard sets how large a single tile can be. Typical specs and the patterns they fit:
| Board | Cells | Roughly | Good for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Small square | 29 × 29 | ~14.5 cm | Charms, keychains |
| Medium square | 50 × 50 | ~25 cm | Coasters, small figurines |
| Large square | 57 × 57 | ~28.5 cm | Largest common single-tile size |
Most boards interlock along the edges, so in theory you can extend indefinitely — but every extra join makes alignment harder.
When it exceeds one board: splitting and joining
- Work out how many boards you need. Long-edge cells divided by cells per board, rounded up. A 60-cell width on a 29-cell board needs three.
- Turn on board guides when exporting. The pattern marks each tile boundary; lay them out to match.
- Start from the centre tile and work outwards. Centring first makes alignment easier than starting from a corner.
- Place a few beads across the seam to check position. Confirm before filling the rest.
- Iron tile by tile. Ironing a large piece in one pass tends to heat unevenly and curl the edges.
The seam is everything: a half-cell misalignment across a join is clearly visible in the finished piece. Spend the time on alignment rather than tearing it apart halfway.
Three real constraints on size
- Time. Roughly a second per bead once practised. A 1000-bead piece is at least half an hour of pure placement, before cleanup and ironing.
- Budget. Beads are sold by count or by bag. Large patterns eat several bags, background most of all.
- Display. The finished size has to match where it will live. "Nowhere to put it" is the most common regret.
A practical sizing flow
- Decide where it goes and how large it can be → target centimetres
- Target cm × 2 → long-edge cells
- Cells ÷ cells per board, rounded up → number of boards
- Cells × cells, minus transparent and background → estimate beads and time
- If that is acceptable, set the size in the tool
Rule of thumb: start under 30 cells for a first project. Completing the whole loop once — image, cleanup, export, ordering, beading, ironing — teaches you more than jumping straight to 80.